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[ Bohuslän, Sweden] ~~ Trad Destinations


<< "Trad Destinations" is a section dumping and sharing random information found in the cloud that may help planning some trad climbing-trip around >>

 Crackoholic - The climbingmovie

"On the west coast of Sweden, in the north of Bohuslän county, lies one of Europe’s most beautiful and best-kept climbing secrets, with its granite walls, square-cut dihedrals, razor-sharp arêtes and soaring cracks. The film retraces the story of this climber’s paradise with additional shots from the repertoire of Leo Houlding and Neil Gresham. It ranges from the first 1970s bandana-wearing climbers to the athletes that are pushing the boundaries of this discipline to new extremes. It dwells on the reasons that drive these athletes to compete against the perils of nature. The climbing in Bohuslän also holds a rich history, with an interesting and passionate core of local activists. Crackoholic tells the full story about this climber`s paradise and portrays these granite afficionados, these Crackoholics. We meet the climbers who have set their mark on the Bohuslän granite throughout the years. From the early days of EBs, white pants and bandanas in the mid-70`s, to today`s athletes who are pushing the standards of trad climbing. What is it that these climbers search for on the granite faces of Bohuslän? What is it that these climbers search for on the granite faces of Bohuslän? Why is naturally protected climbing so important to these individuals? And why do some of them seek out what most climbers consider unnecessary risks? How do you stay focused when fear is trying to take control over your mind, and the likely consequence of a mistake is serious injury or even death? 90 min. Engl. Untertitel The film is produced by Jonas Paulsson and Mikael Widerberg."
Source: CrackoholicYouTube



Resultado de imagen de bohuslan sweden climbing
Rhocha Gil 7+. source: climbing.ilooove.it

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Nice TR at: www.verticallifemag.com.au/2016/09/the-empyrean-granite-of-bohuslan/
Some topos at:27crags topos: https://27crags.com/crags/haller/topos
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/book.php?id=635



 Climbing Destination Information at UK Climbing website: 
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/bohuslaumln_sweden-10050 

Guia feta pels escaladors locals en Suec (tot sona com els mobles de l'IKEA) pero amb traduccions a l'anglès: 
http://www.klattertorpet.se/forare/

 







Fontainebleau

Blauet

Eclipse - Cul de Chien

Foret Noire - Beauveais

Prouptologue - Cuvier Est

Tristesse - Cuvier Rempart

Puelles - sessio de Nadal

Kavernikola

New World Order

"Eaux Claires", un passeig per la història

Els anys 80 van ser una època revolucionària de l'escalada, i les "Eaux Claires" un dels epicentres de la revolta. França va empènyer amb força, en aquesta banda del toll, el moviment per portar els "estreps" a la jubilació anticipada. De la mateixa manera que el Verdon, les "Eaux Claires" van ser autèntics laboratoris de gestualitat donant lloc al 5è 8a mundial (Crépinette, 1983), el 4rt 9a  (Hugh 1993), 2n 9a+(De l'autre coté du ciel, 1997) o primera proposta de 9b (Akira, 1995). I com tots els laboratoris, va estar també carregat de declaracions reaccionàries a nivell mundial que van acabar amb el decès de certes d'aquestes "creacions" (més o menys manufacturades). 
Sigui com sigui, és una autèntica "old school", de petits forats de primera falange, altament tècnica i que requereix tendons de ferro, d'aquelles que fan mal als dits i a l'ego, a parts iguals. El resultat? una escola completament oblidada a les tendències actuals, un plaer exquisit per als paladars més ensinistrats.










Golden Gate

"Solo era una criatura bidimensional perdida en nuestro mundo tridimensional, buscando su propósito en la vida." 
(Bob Esponja)

















Tuolumne Meadows...summer paradise

Photos Copyrighted by Esther A.K.